Interview
Dining Bar in Maruyama, Hokkaido : An Interview with Sima Kuuma
September 19, 2024
Tucked away in Maruyama, "Sima Kuuma" is a hidden gem offering a genre-bending dining experience with a focus on ingredients from Hokkaido and Kagoshima. The owner, a certified Japanese Oyster Meister, directly sources fresh oysters from fishermen, ensuring the highest quality in both their raw and cooked preparations. From the bounty of the sea to the richness of the land, Sima Kuuma promises a symphony of exquisite flavors.
Today, we have the pleasure of speaking with Mr. Kaga, the owner, as he shares insights into the restaurant's unique approach, his journey to opening Sima Kuuma, and some memorable episodes along the way.
Join us as we uncover the secrets behind the charm of "Sima Kuuma".
Q1: How long has it been since you opened?
This year, 2024, marks our 13th anniversary.
Q2: What makes Sima Kuuma unique?
Our most defining characteristic is our “no menu” policy. Instead of a predetermined selection, we craft a full-course meal based on our customers' budgets and dietary preferences using the freshest ingredients available that day.
Q3: What is the origin of the name "Sima Kuuma"?
"Sima," meaning “island,” represents both Hokkaido and Kagoshima, the northern and southern islands of Japan. It’s a play on the English word “island.”
“Kuuma” derives from the Japanese word "umaku," meaning "smoothly" or "well." It reflects our hope that everything related to the restaurant - the producers, staff, and especially the island we love - will flourish and progress smoothly.
The bear in our logo is a nod to Hokkaido, known for its bear population. I designed the "S" to resemble a plump belly, playfully reflecting my own physique.
Q4: What inspired you to open Sima Kuuma?
While working at my previous restaurant, the chef always said, “Having a set menu limits both the chefs and the customers.” This inspired me to create a space where culinary expression is free from the confines of a traditional menu. However, when I was based in Chitose, many customers expressed their anxiety over the lack of a menu. It took me almost seven years of trial and error to find the right balance. Since moving to Maruyama, we’ve gradually gained a following that appreciates our concept.
Q5: Could you describe the concept behind Sima Kuuma?
We offer a genre-defying dining experience centered on Hokkaido and Kagoshima ingredients. Rather than being confined by specific cuisines, we prioritize seasonal ingredients to create dishes bursting with freshness and flavor. Additionally, we're committed to supporting local communities by embracing the farm-to-table approach whenever possible.
Q6: Could you tell us about your background?
I started my career as a bartender and then worked as a waiter at several cafes. However, my passion for cooking led me to spend countless hours learning and honing my skills in the kitchen during my free time. Eventually, I realized I wanted to share my culinary creations and the joy of food with others. I'm also a trained pastry chef, so upon request, I can bake and decorate whole cakes at a reasonable price.
Q7: What do you value most in running your restaurant?
Our relationships with our producers are paramount. These are the experts, the fishermen, and the farmers, and I believe it's crucial to work closely with them. Sometimes, they have brilliant ideas for new products or processes, and I find immense satisfaction in helping them realize their vision.
Q8: What's particularly important to you when sourcing ingredients?
Direct communication and personal connections are key. I visit producers, listen to their stories, and occasionally participate in harvesting. To experience the full range of their dedication and passion, I embark on sourcing trips not only within Hokkaido but across Japan. These trips can sometimes last for 3-5 days, allowing me to reach remote producers who are often overlooked by others.
Q9: Are there any moments in your journey that stand out as particularly rewarding?
Building strong relationships with customers brings immense joy. Equally fulfilling are the conversations and collaborations I have with different businesses and individuals who share a passion for food.
Q10: What has been the most challenging aspect so far?
One challenge that persists is conveying the essence of Sima Kuuma's concept. Take our drink pairings, for instance. Instead of offering a standard all-you-can-drink menu, we suggest a curated selection of beverages that complement each dish. This nuance, however, can be lost as "all-you-can-drink" tends to have a predefined meaning for most. Bridging this gap and effectively communicating our unique approach is an ongoing effort.
Q11: Your Motsunabe (offal hot pot) is quite popular. What’s the secret behind its deliciousness?
Our motsunabe is special because of the incredible depth of flavor in our broth. We use Kagoshima chicken bones and vegetables and then simmer them for almost 40 hours. Combining Hokkaido-sourced meat and bones with the wisdom and ingredients from Kagoshima's dairy farmers elevates this dish to another level.
Originally, we mainly served chicken sashimi, but the transition to making motsunabe a signature dish began when chicken producers taught us how to make this hearty stew, traditionally eaten by them as a staff meal using vegetables and meat for stamina.
Q12: Sima Kuuma is known for its fresh oysters. How do you select them?
While fresh oysters are undoubtedly one of our signature dishes, we prioritize sourcing from producers who share our commitment to food safety. These fishermen prioritize mitigating risks related to Norovirus and employ robust preventive measures.
Q13: What nationalities are most of your foreign customers?
Roughly 5% of our customers are from outside of Japan. Of those, about half are from Asian countries, mainly Taiwan, while the other half primarily consists of Canadian and Australian tourists.
Q14: How do you communicate with customers who don’t speak Japanese?
I don't speak much English myself, and none of my staff are fluent, but communication transcends words. I rely on intuition, reading facial expressions, and employing a healthy dose of gestures to ensure our foreign customers enjoy their dining experience.
Q15: Do you have any memorable encounters with foreign customers?
A particularly remarkable experience involved an American tourist who featured Sima Kuuma on his YouTube channel. The video, which captured me preparing a meal using local Hokkaido ingredients, gained unexpected popularity, reaching almost 400,000 views.
Equally heartwarming was a foreign customer's reaction to our fresh oysters served simply, without any lemon or condiments. His exclamation of "Beautiful!" resonated deeply, showing that people all around the world appreciate quality ingredients.
Q16: What dishes would you recommend to first-time visitors, especially foreigners?
Since we don't have a fixed menu, accommodating dietary needs and preferences is second nature. Opting for “Chef’s Choice” or "Shop’s Choice" empowers me to create the best possible culinary experience tailored to each customer. I'm always happy to discuss budgets and dietary restrictions to craft a symphony of flavors and accompanying drinks that cater to individual needs.
Q17: Do you have any special offers for customers who mention "Pleasure in Japan?”
Absolutely! Show us that you’ve seen our feature on "Pleasure in Japan," and we'll gladly offer you a discount of 500 JPY per person.
Q18: Finally, what message would you like to convey to potential foreign customers?
Here at Sima Kuuma, everyone is treated with equal respect and warmth, regardless of nationality. I believe that the joy of discovering Japanese cuisine should be accessible to all.
My English might be limited to "baby-level," but my heart speaks the universal language of “I love you.” We look forward to welcoming you to Sima Kuuma on your next Hokkaido adventure!
Important Information for Sima Kuuma’s Customers
To ensure an enjoyable experience for everyone, Sima Kuuma kindly ask that you review the following guidelines before visiting Sima Kuuma.
Non-smoking Environment
For the comfort and well-being of all their customers, smoking only odorless e-cigarettes is permitted.
Respectful Atmosphere
Sima Kuuma strives to provide a serene and relaxed dining experience for all. They kindly request that customers refrain from engaging in loud conversations or any disruptive behavior that may detract from the ambiance and enjoyment of others. Your cooperation is greatly appreciated.
Children Welcome During Saturday & Sunday Lunch Only
To provide a comfortable experience for both families and adults dining without children, Sima Kuuma only accommodates young customers during Saturday and Sunday lunch service. Please contact them in advance if you plan on bringing children during these times.
Sima Kuuma kindly ask that you respect these guidelines to help maintain a pleasant environment for all who dine with them at Sima Kuuma.
Store Information
Image Source: Google Street View
[Opening Hours]
- Lunch: 11:30 am - 3:00 pm (Saturday & Sunday Only)
- Dinner: 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm
- Last Order: 10:00 pm
- Closed: Mondays. Lunch service is also closed Tuesday - Friday.
[Address]
- 064-0801 Hokkaido, Sapporo City, Chuo Ward, Minami 1 Jonishi, 26-1-1, Terminal Heights Maruyama. B1F
[Access]
- Directly connected to Exit 4 of Maruyama Koen Station on the Tozai Subway Line.
- No dedicated parking lot is available.
[Phone Number]
- 011-211-4387 (Japanese language only)
[Reservations]
We recommend making reservations in advance.
- Reserving from Tabelog: https://tabelog.com/hokkaido/A0101/A010105/1068542/?cid=google_yoyaku
- Reserving from PayPay Gourmet: https://paypaygourmet.yahoo.co.jp/place/g-jrlmmW7Y3ew/course/?sc_e=sgpa
- Reserving from Retty: https://retty.me/area/PRE01/ARE164/SUB16401/100001583038/
Table seating: Up to approximately 18 people
*Please note that our website is only available in Japanese, so you may need to use a translation app.
*If you make a reservation, we kindly ask that you ensure your attendance. If you need to cancel, please contact us as soon as possible.
*When making a reservation, please confirm the number of people and the time. Thank you.
[Social Media]
[Website]
Conclusion
Sima Kuuma offers a distinctive dining experience, showcasing Hokkaido's seasonal bounty alongside the rich flavors of Kagoshima Motsunabe (offal hot pot). Mr. Kaga's commitment to directly sourcing from trusted producers shines through in his dedication to showcasing the best of Japan's culinary heritage.
While the absence of a traditional menu may seem unusual at first, it reflects a deeper philosophy: to provide a personalized and truly remarkable dining experience for each customer. At Sima Kuuma, every detail is thoughtfully considered, reflecting the owner's commitment to quality, creativity, and a deep respect for Japanese culinary traditions.
When your travels bring you to Hokkaido, we invite you to experience the unique flavors and heartfelt hospitality that await at Sima Kuuma.
PIJ Writer
PIJ Writer, a seasoned connoisseur in his 40s based in Japan, boasts an unparalleled depth of knowledge and experience within the vibrant landscapes of both drinking and gambling, alongside his well-documented ventures into various red-light districts. This extensive exploration encompasses not just the nocturnal delights of Japan's red-light areas but also its myriad of bars, horse racing, pachinko, and many others. Drawing on his firsthand experiences, he conveys the appeal and characteristics of Japan's diverse adult entertainment districts and his enjoyment of the nightlife scene through his writing for PIJ.
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